HISTORY OF COSTUMES – VICTORIAN ERA

HISTORY: – Victorian era lasted started from 1837 and ended with the death of Queen Victoria in 1901. Her rule made Britain the most powerful empire in the world. This was also the time when photography started and people started exploring different areas of life.

CRINOLINE PERIOD

This period derives its name from the invention of a women’s undergarment called the “crinoline” (later called the cage crinoline or hooped underskirt) and lasted from 1850-1869.

WOMEN COSTUME

CRINOLINE: – Crinoline was a framework consisting of round/oval circles (shaped like a hoop) of whalebone, wire, or cane used to extend the skirt. There are caricatures showing how a crinoline was also used to carry children.

SOURCE: – https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82072, https://www.kci.or.jp/en/archives/digital_archives/1850s_1860s/KCI_087, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/104434

SHAWL BODICE: – Women used to wear a crinoline and then wear a shawl like dress on top of it. The skirt area was tiered.

SOURCE: – https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80036546?rpp=20&pg=41&ao=on&ft=%2A&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Dresses&pos=803, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/108066?rpp=90&pg=10&ft=dress&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=846, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/80096815

MEN COSTUME

Men of this period started going for a very cinched in waist look called as the “Wasp Waisted Look”.

FROCK COAT: – This was a man’s coat reaching to the knee, buttoned down to waist level, and with full skirts.

SOURCE: – https://susannaives.com/wordpress/2013/06/gallery-of-mens-fashion-from-1837-1843/

PANTALOONS: – These were men’s bottom wear and were like loose straight fitting breeches.

SOURCE: – https://susannaives.com/wordpress/2013/06/gallery-of-mens-fashion-from-1837-1843/, https://libmma.contentdm.oclc.org/digital/collection/p15324coll12/id/6731

Mean also started wearing corsets to the wasp waisted look. A lot of caricatures show two men pulling the strings of corset to get the waist cinched in.

TOPPERS: – The topper hats were becoming taller and taller. Wearing these represented that the person was from an industrial or a manufacturing family.

LA BELLA EPOQUE
(THE BEAUTIFUL AGE)

This period reigned from 1870-1914 and was called the beautiful age because of the invention of electricity. This allowed the people to work till late night. La Bella Epoque was also the period of trade and fair.

WOMEN COSTUME

PRINCESS POLONAISE: – The polonaise of this period became longer than the Rococo period. There were two types of bustle that were used underneath the garment.

SOURCE: – https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107013?rpp=30&pg=3&rndkey=20151231&ao=on&ft=%2A&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Costume%7CDresses&pos=82, https://www.pinterest.nz/pin/393009504953574887/

SOFT BUSTLE: – Layered or padded with different soft materials. It was worn underneath the dress and would accentuate the hip area.

SOURCE: – http://www.victoriana.com/Victorian-Fashion/victorianbustles.html,

HARD BUSTLE: – Hard bustle was made up of iron rods and created a big structure. There were caricatures showcasing the a woman can carry a chair or a stool as a bustle that will work as a sitting arrangement also.

SOURE: – http://www.victoriana.com/Victorian-Fashion/victorianbustles.html, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107288?searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&ft=bustle&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=1

CUIRASS BODICE: – A tight fitted bodice with a lot of paneling. These panels were added so that the bodice could fit the body well.

SOURCE: – https://neheleniapatterns.com/produkt/kuerasstaille-1885-tv460/?lang=en, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156665, https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81137

SUITS: – Women started wearing suits for the first time in 1890s. The bodice was inspired from the cuirass bodice. Bicycle was invented and women used this opportunity. The size was the bustle reduced in their suits and was limited to the evening dress.

BLOOMERS: – During this time there were few women who decided that they won’t wear the so called feminine garments. Amongst them was the “Amelia Bloomer” who started wearing the bottom wear called bloomers. These bloomers were loose fitting bottoms that were worn as active wear.

SOURCE: – https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/bloomers/

BOATERS: – These were small hats made out of cane and was worn during playing sports.

SOURCE: – http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/strawboater.html

SWIMMING DRESS: – These period was called beautiful age foe a lot of things, one being the participation of people in new sport activities. Swimming was one of them, which led to the making of swimming dresses.

SOURCE: – https://arte8lusso.net/fashion/historyofwomenssuits/

CHARLES FREDRICK WORTH

Charles Fredrick Worth is known as the “Father of Haute Couture”. He was the first person to label the costumes that he made.

SOURCE: – https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm

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